Drudgery and a Dance!

Day 77: Thursday, October 15, 2009

Ughh! Eight solid hours of schoolwork today! We were supposed to have only six, but John got an extra two hours tacked on for something he did. The only bad thing about that is the fact that I, of course, got an extra two hours as well! His punishment became my punishment – or so I thought. Toward the end of the eight hours, I was becoming restless and delirious! I could barely concentrate, and to make matters worse, the cruise ship had a live band playing all the classics: Louis Armstrong, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, etc. I was dying! I wanted to dance with someone – anyone – so badly! Then, the most adorable thing happened! John looked at me and suddenly said, “You want to dance, don’t you?” I started laughing and said, “Yes! How did you know?” And he replied, “Because every time they start a new song you sigh and sing a little bit of it.” Well, that really cracked me up, because I didn’t even realize that I was doing that! Then he said, “Why don’t you go dance?” I told him that I couldn’t because I didn’t have anyone to dance with, and that everyone on this ship already came with someone else. Now, are you ready for this? John couldn’t have been more endearing when he said, “I’ll dance with you.” Ahhh! That sent me into a fit of giggles, but it simultaneously warmed my heart to the core. I politely declined. I told him that we needed to finish our schoolwork, but he insisted. “Just for five minutes, Miss Zeiler, five minutes.” And I could not refuse that!

And I have to tell you, he put his heart and soul into it. We were the two silliest people that you have ever seen. I taught him some steps during Michel Buble’s “Sway,” which he readily picked up. We grinned and giggled for about ten minutes time and then resumed our studies. I needed that, and he knew it. Children are amazing in that way – incredibly perceptive and generous to a fault. John made a world of difference to me: a little eleven-year-old boy made me smile and made me laugh; he was a little songbird of joy and happiness to me today. Because of him, I felt young and vibrant. He put a little skip in my step for the rest of the evening. Ironically, his little punishment became my little blessing after all (which made up for my very bad loss at the tables tonight!).

It’s Istanbul, Not Constantinople! (And Not That Either)

Mary's House

Outside the House of Mary

Entrance to the baths

The amphitheater at Ephesus

Inside a mosque

The coast of Turkey

Day 76: Wednesday, October 14, 2009

The morning greeted us in Ephesus, Turkey. I must admit that I had a few reservations about visiting here, but I was sorely wrong in having them – for the most part. Turkey is beautiful! The waters around the coast were crystal clear and terribly inviting. We picked up a guide named Emre to visit the ruins of Ephesus. They were amazing! These were the most complete and beautiful of all the ancient ruins that I have seen thus far. Emre was incredibly knowledgeable, and that made all the difference in appreciating this land’s fascinating history.

Our first stop was, remarkably, the house in which Mary was believed to have lived after Christ’s crucifixion. The apostle, John, was known to have lived there and preached during that time, and of course, Mary was entrusted to his care. It was discovered by a German nun who had received the stigmata, and although she had never left her convent, she had visions describing the area in which the house was found. I found it ironic that, if this actually were Mary’s house, it was located within a mostly Muslim nation! Unfortunately, there were crowds of people there, so we could only, literally, walk through the tiny house in a single-file line. Still, I found it quite meaningful to visit the humble dwelling. All around it grew tall trees and flowers. An underground aquifer provided fresh spring water, and the songs of numerous birds provided a contemplative environment.

Afterwards, Emre took us to the ruins themselves. The reason that these are so intact is because Ephesus was not demolished or sacked by invaders. Instead, it was literally abandoned. Apparently, over the years, the ocean receded, and the Romans spent a great deal of money digging out the silt that was accumulating in this once rich port city in order to clear the passage of importing and exporting ships. Once the Roman Empire fell into decline, the people moved the city closer to the ocean to ensure abundant trade. There are acres and acres of beautiful ruins: homes, public baths, an amphitheater, a gorgeous library, an agora, temples, and government administrative buildings. The most fascinating thing to me, though, was the discovery of terra cotta pipes running throughout the city. The entire city of Ephesus had indoor plumbing and heated water! The pipes were even laid under the marble floors to heat them during the winter! This was an extraordinary find. Apparently, Ephesus is the only known place of the ancient world to have had this luxury. The other highlight was seeing (but not touring) the prison in which St. Paul was kept after preaching in the Amphitheater.

As expected, there was much discussion about the major world religions while we drove from one site to the next. Emre invited us to visit a mosque. I was quite interested in seeing one, so he took us to one built in the 1300s. It was very interesting to learn more about the Muslim faith while standing within a mosque. Of course, I and the other women borrowed veils to wear inside out of respect. Emre did a very good job explaining the difference between what his faith teaches and what the extremists practice. He answered all our questions – and there were many – and in the end, I had a tremendous amount of respect for him in particular. He was a young man of great virtue and a great reminder to me of how important it is for me to represent my Christian faith as well.

At this point, our tour was wrapping up. There was just one last stop to make: a visit to a carpet-making shop. We thought that we were going to get a demonstration of how they were made, but it ended up being a ploy to get us to buy the very beautiful, but very expensive carpets! The pressure was intense, and I was quite annoyed! I finally excused myself and literally ran out of the store! Salesmen were practically running after me! Once I escaped, I decided to walk through the local bazaar to see if I could find any presents for my family back home while I waited for the rest of the family to finish up with the high pressure sales tactics. I love bazaars, and I was very much looking forward to visiting this one, BUT… Of course, this ended up being a disaster for me! Emre might be respectful, but the men who ran the dozens of shops in this bazaar definitely were NOT! They were all standing outside their shops asking people to come in and browse. I never got the chance to look in even one! I was grabbed everywhere you can imagine and was the subject of every inappropriate comment the most perverse person could dream up! And this happening all at the hands of the shopkeepers! I practically ran through the narrow alley, trying to ignore the probing hands and revolting suggestions. Unfortunately, what started out as a lovely day was ruined by a most unpleasant ending note. I was thrilled when the boat finally shed the skin of this duplicitous port. My only consolation was winning another eighty dollars at the poker tables tonight! I’ll count my blessings from wherever they come!

The Roads of Rhodes!

The medieval wall and moat around Rhodes

A map oof our cruise route

Day 75: Tuesday, October 13, 2009

From the deck I watched our ship roll in to the inviting port of Rhodes, Greece. The waters which enveloped our ship were a beautiful turquoise blue. Dan gave me the okay to have the morning and afternoon to myself. The city stretched out in warm welcome. I decided to head out on my own to explore the city, but I got a very late start, due to my wanting to catch up on my journal writing. Finally, I entered the city and loved it immediately. Rhodes has retained much of its Medieval architecture; in fact, I have never seen a protective wall and moat so intact. It made it quite easy to imagine the glory days of knights and ladies and filth and poverty – the whole nine yards. What I loved the most were the narrow streets which were topped with Romanesque arches. Most of these were original and would be quite ancient in construction. I must confess that I sought out an internet café almost immediately. I haven’t been able to post my journal or read e-mails for a while now, and I probably will not have the opportunity to do so for a while still. Internet access on the cruise ship costs sixty-five cents a minute! Ouch!

After posting my updated journals, I let Fate take me where it wished, and I merely serpentined up and down the narrow, winding paths. I didn’t really do anything historical or cultural in Rhodes. I just wanted one day of low-key browsing and aimless meandering. In this respect, Rhodes did not disappoint. I suppose it is fortunate that I cannot afford to pick-up any miscellaneous items due to a lack of room in my suitcase! Otherwise, the many quaint shops here would be pillaged and plundered by my pocketbook, and I would have to invest in a herd of camels to bring it all back! The bargains were the best that I have seen throughout all of Europe.

My return to the ship was followed by a few hours of schoolwork, and then it was time to hit the poker tables again. After several hours of playing, again I was ahead, only twenty-seven dollars ahead, but ahead is ahead after all!

It’s All Greek to Me!

Athens bathed in the morning sun

Guard in front of the Parliament Building

Attack of the birds!

3.

The main shopping street in downtown Athens

I loved the colors of this little home!

The Acropolis

Day 74: Monday, October 12, 2009

Whatever you do, do NOT call me Ishmael. Instead, call me Stupid! Today we arrived in Athens, and Dan had scheduled a private tour of the Acropolis and Agora. We took a taxi into the center of the city and watched the changing of the guard in from of the Parliament building. The soldiers were fascinating to watch, and I boldly approached one on guard to have my picture taken next to him. I was a little afraid, but fortunately, I wasn’t shot! In front of the building is a little plaza which a billion pigeons call home. A man was selling birdseed, so we bought some to feed the pigeons. THEN… he made me put the food on me, and several pigeons crawled all over me, practically pecking me to death! I was having flashbacks of Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds, as my arms were covered with light scratches from their wickedly sharp toes! Ouch! Painful, but great for pictures!

We started walking toward the Acropolis where we were supposed to meet our guide, and here is where the Stupid part of my story occurs. Of course, as usual, I was looking around instead of paying attention to what was directly in front of me. Just as we were about to cross a one-way street, I hit a marble stone squarely with shin! I cannot tell you how painful that was. Naturally, the stone tripped me, and I fell into the street – right in front of an oncoming taxi! Fortunately, he was paying attention and slammed on his brakes just in the nick of time! I cannot tell you how close I was to getting run over! As I lay in the street, he waved me on, but I could barely move, the pain was so great. I crawled across the street and forced myself not to cry. After that, walking was incredibly painful. My leg was throbbing for the remainder of the day.

We met up with our guide, Vicky, who was absolutely fabulous! We toured the temples and galleries on the hill and were treated to the most amazing birds’ eye views of the sprawling metropolis. Unfortunately, after a couple of hours, I couldn’t tolerate the standing or walking because of my leg, so I went down the mountain to wait for the family. A brief tour of the Agora finished off the tour, and we headed back for the ship – with Greek gyros in hand! Delicious!

Of course, I was anxious to hit the casino again. I put in my initial $100.00, but luck was not on my side at first. I decided to make a bold move, and bluff my way through the next hand, with nothing but a pair of sevens! The table fell for it, and thanks to that one hand, I left the table for a break $45.00 ahead! Out on the deck, I talked to several people from all over the world and decided to give the tables another go. I put in the $100.00, and things went down hill quickly. I decided to make another bold gamble, and it worked again – this time with a lousy pair of threes! That put me $35.00 ahead for this second round. All in all, I walked away with $80.00 more than with what I had started! So… over the course of two nights of poker, I am ahead $128.00, more than doubling my initial wager! Not too shabby! There’s nothing like winning a little money to sooth the pain of losing a little dignity by injuring oneself simply crossing a street!

A Joker and a Game of Poker!

Day 73: Sunday, October 11, 2009

Oops! We all overslept! Dan called us at 8:55 in the morning to tell us that Mass was going to start at 9:00 on Deck 4! I jumped out of bed, brushed my teeth, and threw on some clothes. I didn’t even have time to wash my face, let alone put on an ounce of make-up! Aghh! You know me and my make-up – you’ll never see me without it, and yet, it was out of my hands for now! Tori and I raced up the stairs and found the theater in which the Mass was being held.

It was the single strangest Mass that I have ever attended! First of all, it was in a small movie theater of sorts, complete with lights running lights along the floors and ceilings! We were a bit late, and although the gospel was being read, everyone was seated in comfy lounge chairs. Okay. Interesting – and very different. But then… the priest began his thirty minute homily, or should I say comedy act. No, really. He grabbed a chair and started telling jokes and stories for a full half an hour. He remained seated for the entire Mass, except for when he distributed communion. He was the most flippant, casual priest that I have ever encountered. The Mass was almost unrecognizable due to his constant commenting and changing of the standard prayers. By the end, I was furious! Tori was gravely disappointed as well and made the comment that she felt that the Mass was terribly disrespectful and felt more like a Las Vegas show. I was thankful that we were both on the same page.

After Mass and breakfast, and because we were going to be at sea all day and night, the children and I worked on our studies for the entire day! It was exhausting and difficult. We were all very much aware of all the fun that we could be having! Finally, Dan came and got us and told us that we had fifteen minutes to get ready for our formal dinner. Of course, none of us had anything along the lines of formalwear, but we made riches out of our rags. I loaned Tori the only dress I had, and she looked smashing! Over all, I would say that we were able to pull it off, although everyone else was dressed to the nines, and it made for a stunning display to see.

Immediately after dinner, I changed into my usual traveling rags and headed for the casino. I simply had to know if they offered Texas Hold’em. I have been going through withdrawals ever since I have left Dallas and my beloved Wednesday night game! Sure enough, they offer two Texas Hold’em tables that are electronically dealt. I had never played like this before, but a nice man from Atlanta showed me the ropes. The game is not played against the house, but among the other players that show up. The house wins every time by taking a ten percent cut of every winning hand! That’s pretty steep, but not steep enough to keep me away! Initially, it was only I and two other players (Divan – the man from Atlanta, and Chris, a lady from England), so the 1-2 blinds were draining my funds quickly! By the end of two hours time, I was $28.60 ahead, so I cashed out, returned to my room, and fell asleep with a “winning” smile on my face. I couldn’t wait to hit the tables again!

Just Cruisin’ Along!

Our cabin aboard!

Our ship's restaurant - ooh la la!

Cheers to the high life (while it lasts!)

Tori and I at dinner

Our formal dinner

Day 72: Saturday, October 10, 2009

The whole of the morning and early afternoon was spent in leaving Tuscany and heading for a port outside Rome for… the thirteen day cruise we were going to take around the Mediterranean! I have never been on a cruise in my life, and so I was terribly excited! We pulled up in our taxi, and there before us, was the largest ship that I have ever seen! It is a brand new cruiser belonging to Celebrity Cruises, and it is called the Equinox. The ship is 16 stories tall and it is absolutely gorgeous inside! Tori and I ran as fast as we could to the cabin which we would share. We both fell in love with it immediately, and after unpacking my things, it was time to go exploring!

I went from floor to floor, but still couldn’t take it all in! The sheer size of this ship is overwhelming. There are fountains, an indoor pool, an outdoor pool, a basketball court, countless bars, restaurants, shops, theaters, and, HELLO!, a casino! I made plans to revisit that as soon as I could! After dinner, I grabbed Dannie from out of her room and made her join me on the uppermost deck for the Sail-away Party. There was a live band paying everything you can imagine – Elivis, the Beatles, swing, rockabilly, Big Band, and salsa! The fountains were lit, people were singing along in the pool and four hot tubs, and several couples were dancing in front of the band. Finally, I couldn’t take sitting down for another second. Almost everyone on this cruise is pretty old, and if they could dance unashamedly, then so could I! There was nothing to lose! I jumped up at the next salsa song and danced by myself. But then… other ladies, whose husbands refused to put so much as a toe on the dance floor joined me in my solo display. Immediate bonding was shared by the throng of us!

After the party, I was exhausted! I headed to my room around 8:30 and was completely asleep by 9:00! Pathetic, I know, but all these days of endless travel have worn me down to the nub. Early to bed meant early to rise, and I didn’t dare risk missing a minute of my new adventure on the high seas!

Happy Feet!

Day 71: Friday, October 9, 2009

Today marks the end of yet another shoe disaster! I had been so thankful when my mother shipped me my tennis shoes, but then… the soles came completely off! My mistake was in washing them in the washing machine. I grabbed the keys and drove into town. In passing one day I had seen a store similar to WalMart. Fortunately, this store, called Stefano’s, featured five long aisles of shoes, most of which were name brand! I was determined to take my time in finding the perfect pair. I must have tried on a good twenty-pairs of shoes and walked each pair of them down the aisle. One pair was heads and shoulders above the competition. They were Italian shoes, made of nice thick leather inside and out with lots of support. Nike, Addidas, New Balance, etc. couldn’t hold a candle to them, and the best part about them was the price! They were only twenty euros ($30.00). Amazing! I was thrilled!

While I was out, Dannie had asked me to schedule a haircut appointment for the boys. Although I was a little intimidated to do so, I did. After their appointment I showed James a game room in the mall in which the salon was located. James has a fascination with those crane machines that grab stuffed animals and toys, and they had one that featured ladies’ watches. James told me to choose the one that I liked the best. He wanted to win one for me! He helped me select one, and away he went. I cannot tell you how close he got! After three tries, I was hooked. I gave it another three tries, but none of which met with success. We both left frustrated, but it’s terrible – those things are so addicting!
After returning to the villa, I decided to get a head start on packing as we were due to leave the next morning. Once everything was all tucked away, I needed to say goodbye to Tuscany. I poured myself a glass of local wine, and took my nocturnal walk. It was a quarter moon, so I had to be careful of my footing. Tuscany was in rare form tonight. She seemed like a lady dressed for the evening. Every day and night of the extended stay here had been clear and warm. But tonight, it was cool and overcast. The valleys had filled with a heavy fog which was creeping up the hillsides toward me. The mist looked as if it were alive, alive and searching for something. With the moon only peeking out every now and then from behind the clouds, it was extra mysterious. A strange blue glow flickered over everything below. The evening felt pulsing and electric. Although I had been tired up to that point, the strangeness of nature on this mystical evening surged through me, and sleep was the farthest thing from my mind.

All Work and No Play…

Day 70: Thursday, October 8, 2009

To make up for our frivolity in Venice, we worked all day long on our studies. Dannie had to take John into Rome for his monthly allergy shots. I stayed back with Tori and James and played both teacher and housewife. I cleaned the house and processed three loads of laundry for the family.

The only highlight of the day was when I taught James and Tori how to make baked potatoes. We salted the skins, wrapped them in foil, chopped the chives, and grated the cheese. They actually turned out great, and the kids loved them (despite the fact that our oven was on the fritz). Fortunately, James and Tori are developing a growing interest in cooking! I told them that I fully intend to return to Dallas and really start cooking from scratch. James wants me to grow an herb garden, so that he can harvest the herbs fresh and help me prepare dinners.

The children are so sweet! They know how desperately I want to buy my first home when I come back to Dallas, so every time I see something here that I like, they remind me to include it in my home. James has already promised to help me keep up with my yard work! Every day new fruits, vegetables, and flowers are added to the grand design (some added by me, and some added by Tori, James, and John). I do fully intend to take them up on their offers, and I am getting more and more anxious to find and buy my own little slice of Heaven on Earth!

The Days of Wine and Roses

Venice in the fog

St. Mark's Square

Venice at sunset

Aren't the colors gorgeous?

No gondolas, but water taxis are great!

Day 69: Wednesday, October 7, 2009

After spending hours pouring over train schedules, I had finally worked it all out – down to the last detail. A trip to Venice would require taking a 7:35 a.m. train, but the 5:30 wake-up call would be well worth the loss of sleep. Miraculously, everyone got up on time and without complaint. We left the house at 6:45 a.m. to make it to the station on time. I, however, had not accounted for the one hour time parking limit at the station. I locked the car and hoped for the best: please, God, no tickets or towing! We hopped the train the Florence, had a ten minute layover, and took the next train to Venice. As I looked out the window, my excitement increased by the minute. Water lay on both sides of the tracks. A heavy fog had rolled in and made our arrival quite mystic and mysterious. What a perfect setting!

Once we disembarked from the train, the city was ours for the taking! I led the family down the narrow streets, and they oohed and ahhed over the spider web of canals and lacy bridges. Gondolas graced every little river, and romance dripped from every nook and cranny. Finally, the narrow passageways opened widely onto St. Mark’s Square. The huge Basilica and the Doges’ Palace dominated one side of the square. Wickedly long colonnades and the gorgeous clock tower line the other three. The whole piazza was filled with interlinked couples, quintets and quartets playing music on their stringed instruments, and hundreds and hundreds of the infamous pigeons! We grabbed a bite to eat on the square, and got in line to tour St. Mark’s Basilica. This church became the showpiece of Italian culture and wealth back when Venice was the master of Europe. Only the finest marbles, metals, and artwork would do for the proud ruling families of the time. But really, can a church get any more ornate? Every last square inch of its ceiling is covered with gold tesseras and amazingly detailed mosaics. I cannot fathom the amount of time it took artisans to craft that ceiling. And then there is the floor! First of all, it is quite extensive in square footage; second, it is entirely covered with marble mosaic pictures of the most detailed designs. In some places, one square foot of flooring alone required several hundred marble pieces! Insane! Who has this kind of time? I am jealous!

In the right wing is located the church’s treasury. Fine chalices and patens with gold and precious jewels from over the centuries filled the shelves. This was all fine and dandy. Some of the pieces were truly extraordinary, but then… we entered the reliquary room. Oh dear, I wish we hadn’t done that! European church tradition varies a bit from my American one, and thank heaven it does! Beautifully detailed gold and silver reliquaries finely displayed… absolutely disgusting old browning leg bones, arm bones, bone fragments, bone skulls, and one even showcased… an intact withered hand! I just about screamed when I saw that one! Of course, these were all taken from deceased saints or other generally holy people and all, but really, that kind of thing doesn’t go over so well with me. I am a fan of burying the dead and keeping them that way! That room gave me the creeps! For me, it was the stuff of nightmares!
Mercifully, we left the room and proceeded to the actual tomb of St. Mark, the evangelist. His stone sarcophagus is the actual base of the main altar. Although it was only a simple roughly hewn tomb, it was amazing to know that this slab of stone enclosed the body of one of the four gospel writers, and that it dated back almost two thousand years! Incredible! Behind his tomb and facing the tabernacle is the famous altar screen this made of gold and boasts literally thousands of large pearls and precious stones including rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, topaz, garnets, and amethysts. Glorious! The children and I gazed upon it for a small eternity. James was trying to figure out how much it must be worth, while John was plotting a way of stealing it! (Forgive him, the little pirate is reading Treasure Island right now.)

After exiting St. Mark’s we enjoyed a cone of gelato and chased the pigeons around. The boys particularly enjoyed this form of childish amusement! At this point, we separated. They wanted to tour the Doge’s Palace and ascend the large bell tower. Since I have already toured the Palace once before, I decided to explore the city by simply getting lost in its labyrinth of criss-crossing canals and alleyways. Off I went. I strolled down major streets and slipped into exceedingly narrow passages. Some were loud and boisterous; others were still, quiet, and sleepy. But everywhere there was something to be seen. The whole city is steeped in a rapid state of decay. The layers of paint, stucco, and cement are peeling away to reveal stone, brick, mason patchwork, mold, mildew, and moss. All of this adds to the beauty of the city, a city that really should never have existed. Built on mud and silt, it is rapidly sinking at an alarming rate of two-and-a half inches every decade. It is estimated that thirty percent of the city’s outdoor art will be lost in the next ten years. Yes, Venice, had its heyday, but like every other creation of man, it is doomed to destruction. Just like man himself, no culture or country can outrun the sickle of Old Man Time.

I ducked in and out of some little shops and admired the many beautiful pieces of Murano glass, leather wallets and purses, amazing displays of Italian fashion, and, of course, the beautiful handmade masks of Carnivalli, the original Mardi Gras. If there were only one festival in the world that I could attend, this would be it. Venice is so enchanting as it is, but factor in Renaissance styled ball gowns, men wearing long, dapper capes, outrageous hairstyles, floats, parades, dancing, music, moonlit gondola rides, and gorgeous wearable art in the form of masks, and what you have is one perfect party. Of course, I could imagine it clearly; I could even hear the stringed instruments playing the elegant music in the old ballrooms, and as I did, I practically waltzed down the street in time.

I love Venice. I love how old it looks. I love how old it actually is. I love the signs of weathering and erosion everywhere. I even love the ridiculous tourist trappiness that permeates everything! And as beautiful as I find it to be now, how much more so was it in its glory days, in its days of wine and roses? Not even I could imagine…

Assisi? Si, si, si, si, si!

Saint Francis - he's amazing!

The statue of St. Francis that is constantly kept company by birds

Skyline of Assisi

Old ironwork in Assisi

In front of the Basilica of Saint Francis

Day 68: Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Assisi. I love Assisi. I adore Assisi. Assisi is one of those towns that it too perfect to be real. And today was the day I would see it again after fifteen years. After studying all morning, we hopped in the rental car, which yours truly would be driving the whole 250 kilometer round trip. No, I wasn’t the least bit nervous. I wanted to drive. I have needed to drive. Driving makes me feel free, and my wings were in need of a good stretching. To add icing to the cake, a good 80 of those kilometers required driving through the mountains. The mountains! Mountains and manual transmissions. I love driving in the mountains. I love steep slopes. I love hairpin turns. I love using first and second gears to slow the engine downhill instead of using brakes! I love the challenge. I love the thrill! I love it all, and I loved it all.

Thanks to TomTom, our GPS, we arrived in Assisi without a hitch and parked the park since cars are not allowed within the city’s walls. This little town has the most glorious curb appeal! It is built neatly and solidly along the slope of a mountainside, and all its stone buildings looked freshly tidied and cleaned. We walked up the steep incline to the main city gate, which was first built during the 1100s. It was like walking into a fairy tale. The narrow cobblestone streets were a challenge to our clumsy feet, but the stumbling was well worth the effort. We ascended the hill to the main Basilica and peeked in all the little shops on either side of the road. I am in love with these little shops which feature Tuscan pottery in an array of cheerful colors, hand-carved woodwork, and religious objects painted with great care. But even more beautiful are the walls and ceilings of the stores themselves. They are mostly tiny little shops which have kept the original architectural design – narrow red brick Romanesque arches and stone walls. They are the coziest little things that I have ever seen. I am quite certain that little hobbits, gnomes, and fairyesque creatures must inhabit them when the last lights are turned off for the evening and the front door locks click into place.

We passed through another arch, and there before us towered the mighty Basilica, which was first built in the 1200s. I have always loved the ceiling in this Church as it “painted” with crushed lapis lazuli and dotted with gold-leafed stars. It produces the loveliest effect – very soothing, very ethereal. I descended the steps by the altar into the crypt, and there in the center, amid many burning candles and breathtaking floral arrangements, was the ever-so-simple sarcophagus of St. Francis of Assisi himself. In the four corners of the square vault were four of his fellow brothers and companions during his life. Of all the beautiful tombs that I have seen throughout Europe, this one by far, is my favorite. I love its simplicity, its total focus on the stone “coffin” itself. Other tombs have glorious marble or bronze figures and animals adorning them, so much so, in fact, that you can’t even see the tomb! But this one was perfect for Saint Francis in its simplicity. There was not one ornamental carving around it. I was so much more conscious that his remains were right there before me. I solemnly left this hallowed place to find his relics.

They are housed in another slightly larger vault, which was built by the Franciscan brothers themselves and was used as their first monastery, so it, too, dates backs to the 1200s. Included among the relics is St. Francis’s original tunic, which has been jealously protected by the Franciscans since the time of his death. It is beautiful to behold. It is made of several dozen woolen patches sewn together like a collage. None of the colors match exactly, as they are all taken from bits and pieces of the cheapest undyed wool that he could acquire. To see his actual cloak was both amazing and humbling. You can clearly see the poverty that he lived in every stitch of it. He truly was an amazing man.

After visiting the Basilica, we walked several more alleys toward the top of the town where the Church of Santa Chiasa has been built. This Church contains the remains of Saint Clare, who was a contemporary of St. Francis and the founder of the order of the Poor Clares. She and Francis were the best of friends. We descended the steps of the church to the vault which contained her tomb, and again the beauty of it was breathtaking. Hers, actually, is quite fancy, but somehow it seemed fitting, although I cannot explain exactly why. She, too, took the vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, but it just seemed appropriate for the lady that she truly was. The relics in her vault included her original tunic and the many items that she hand-stitched for St. Francis after he had received the stigmata. I couldn’t help but imagine what an amazing friendship these two must have had. Their lives were incredibly difficult, but to have had each other must have made all the difference in the world.

After St. Clare’s we went to the huge Basilica at the base of the mountain which houses the tiny little church that St. Francis himself had built. It is funny to walk into a huge church, only to find a tiny little church in the middle of it. They have since fancied it up a bit, but the original walls are still in place, and you can clearly see the simple stonework building of St. Francis’s design. To the right of the little church is the rose garden, which Franciscan tradition teaches is the site where St. Francis threw himself into the roses to distract himself from temptation. Ever since that day, the roses have continuously grown without thorns (and, nope, they aren’t there – I checked!). Near the garden is a beautiful statue of St. Francis holding a basket. I had remembered this statue distinctly, because we were told by our professor back in the day, that there is never a time when a living bird does not sit in the basket. Fifteen years ago, I sat near the statue and watched it for an entire hour. During the course of that sixty minutes, six different birds flew in and out of that basket, and it was true, not for a second, was Saint Francis without one of his animal friends. I had told the children about the statue before we arrived, and they were quite anxious to see it. Secretly, I was nervous. What if the birds weren’t there? We rounded the corner and found the statue, and, YES, there was a snow white dove sitting in the basket! The children were amazed. We stood nearby for about twenty-five minutes, but the bird never left.

All in all, the day spent in Assisi was purely amazing. For me it was spiritually nourishing. It was edifying to have walked the same streets that he and Clare walked, to have knelt and prayed in the tiny little chapel that he built with his own hands, to have walked by the roses that honored his commitment to the good and God, to have paid my respects at his simple but holy grave, and to have witnessed the guarding of his memory in the form of a wooden statue by his friends, the snow white doves. What a life lived. What a legacy preserved.